Tacos from Boston at bargain prices hit the Village
By Vicki Polon
My idea of a happy meal? Beer-battered Atlantic pollock slathered with crema, nestled in two corn tortillas and shredded raw cabbage, a couple slivers of pickled onion, and a nifty salsa fresca atop. My idea of an even happier meal? The above, right around the corner, in the just-popped, Dorado, a slick bright pocket of a joint – 20 seats, all stools and counter tops. Opened January 5th, it’s the Big Apple sibling of the Brookline, MA original. After a few successful years, Michael and Rachel Brau decided to bring their Mexican passion to Manhattan, leaving chef-partner Doug Organ to keep the boat afloat up north.
The menu is simple: eight varieties of tacos ($2.95-$3.25), including that instantly addictive Baja Original, a just-right-rarish and moist grilled swordfish, ground chorizo, portabella “shroom,” and more, with four different salsas in rotation. They’re small, so you might need two or three to make a real meal. Sides (from $1.95 - $5.25) consist of the taste bud-wowing ratio of salt-to-crunch homemade chips, plain or spicy ($1.95, with salsa $3.25), guacamole (too salty the night I had it), vegetarian black beans, and Mexican fruit salad. Chicken taco soup ($4.25) was tangy good, with cilantro and lime, radish and shredded taco. Bigger appetites will be sated with quesadillas, 12” Frisbees of flour tortilla, layered with three cheeses and choice of fillings. Sangria ($5.95) makes a delicious slurp, there’s sweetened homemade Jamaica agua fresca, brewed from hibiscus leaves ($2.00), a chillbox full of Mexican beers ($3.50 - $5.00), Jarritos fruit-flavored sodas ($2.00) and Mexican Coca Cola. What’s a Mexican coke, you ask? It’s made with real sugar, not high fructose corn syrup.
East coasters based for years in San Diego, the Braus owned and operated Baltimore Bagel, a chain of 16 bagel shops, before deciding to come back in 2009 to open Dorado. Everything is made on premises every day (except tortillas from Boston), they claim to be eco-friendly - implements, packaging and dishes all compostable - and green as green gets. Rachel crows, “We serve gourmet food at fast food prices.” I must resist, I must resist, I can’t resist. Happy.
28 East 12th Street between Fifth Avenue and University Place. 212 627-0900. Open 7 days, Monday through Saturday 11am – 10pm, Sunday, noon - 9pm. No delivery yet.
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